The Uz Valley in winter

Winter here is not about ski slopes — it is about the quiet under the snow. The plan below works for any winter weekend; catch the one between Christmas and New Year and you get the spectacle of the old customs as well.

Day 1 — the snow

• Sledging at the guesthouse — a gentle slope, a soft landing.
• Snowman & photos — the snow-laden willow in the yard is the star of every album.
• Evening — the stove roars, the cauldron simmers at the hearth, and the steaming hot tub under a frozen sky is exactly what you need.

Day 2 — the white gorge

A walk through the Uz gorge: the waterfall grows steps of ice, the forest falls silent, the lake steams on frosty mornings. Waterproof footwear and a thermos of tea — that is all you need.

Over the holidays — the old customs

Dărmănești keeps two spectacular festivals of winter customs: "Jianul" on 25 December and "Ursul" (the Bear) on 31 December — troupes with masks, drums and traditions handed down for generations. Details in the calendar.